Living in Oradea

John:
As we neared the end of the first part of our Adventure we were feeling the physical and mental fatigue of moving every 4 to 5 days for 5 months. While I have enjoyed all the benefits of mass transportation in every city we’ve stayed and not having to think about navigating all foreign places and some congested cities it also made traveling more physically challenging traveling between cities. Even our Adventure respite for the wedding in the States was scheduled with us shuttling between friends to make sure we saw as much of them as plausible. So, we decided after the wedding to select an affordable moderately sized city to live for weeks or months in one place.

While Western Europe is fantastic the cost of living is comparable to the States so living there would take more funds than we had allocated but we had read on the internet there are some locations that were much less expensive, parts of Italy, Northern Spain and Portugal. Anyone would be an excellent destination. Unfortunately, the rent was more than we wanted to pay so we stop considering all of Western Europe. We did enjoy Gdansk, Poland, and Brasov, Romania the few days we visited. Also, our hosts in Munich told us of their motorcycling adventures in Sarajevo and those three locations had much lower cost of living than the west. We decided on Romania, selected cities that had a population of at least 200K, mass transportation, walkable to bars and restaurants, ground floor or elevator apartment, full kitchen and a washing machine. After identifying about six cities, Barb researched potential Airbnb’s in each. We then listed each apartment with their match up to our requirements. Each apartment met most of our criteria so we removed the location and rental cost and discussed each on the amenities. After a lengthy discussion we decided on Oradea, Romania.

We flew to Oradea airport from Stansted, London. It was a little below freezing as we deplaned and walked across the tarmac. I expected to be inside quickly so didn’t zip up my coat so when I had to wait in a line outside of the terminal it felt very cold. Eventually the queue moved inside and were quickly presenting our passports to the customs official. He gave us an indifferent look and stamped our passport. The main terminal was about 400 square feet with only a small food counter where coffee, soft drinks and small food items could be bought. I saw a sign for a rental car company but other than that the lobby of people was all I noticed. We walked outside with our Airbnb address ready knowing we wanted a taxi. Barb knew to select one with the rates posted on the door to reduce the risk of being cheated, I always assume all cab drivers will attempt to extort as much money from a fare as possible. We selected the taxi of a young man in his twenties. He spoke with us during the 15 minute trip asking where we were from and why we came to Oradea. He seemed surprised we planned to live in his city for three months.

We passed buildings housing businesses, billboards and a moderate number of cars on our ride. Our apartment building was about two-thirds of a mile from the center of Oradea, Old City. As we approached our apartment there was less green space and more five to 10 story multi-purpose buildings. There were businesses on the ground floor and apartments on the floors above. Most of them were a drab grey color and because it was late December most of the foliage was dormant adding to the bleakness. The driver was able to park immediately in front of the building. Barb had given him the address, but he didn’t seem to be able to pinpoint where we needed to be. Luckily Barb recognized a restaurant from Google Earth across the street. I noticed a flashing “Famacia” sign, people queuing at an ATM for “CEC Bank” and there was a bakery next to a clothing store advertising “pret redus 20%!”, I assumed something was on sale with 20% off. In between the businesses were glass doors with numbers and words that turned out to be addresses. Barb pointed to the building she expected to be ours and the driver parked at the curb just in front. I hopped out of the taxi and met the driver at the trunk already unloading our bags. He said, “16 Lei. That’s about 4 bucks.” I gave him two tens and he flashed a big smile with a “Thank you”. Barb knew the address and the apartment number was 725 so we saw a keypad next to the door and began pressing buttons and she managed to ring our apartment. A voice from the speaker said “Buna.” Barb introduced herself mentioning the landlords name and the voice said, “Come upstairs.” When we heard a buzzing sound we pulled on the door and it opened to a small 4’ by 4’ area with potted plants, there were four steps leading to either stairs or the elevator. We pushed the only button near the elevator doors illuminating a red light and instantly heard a whirring mechanical sound and in a minute the light went out and the noise stopped. I pulled on the metal handle and saw a pair of café doors, each about 12 inches wide. I pushed them both in and they snapped open showing a small space about four square feet. Barb got in first and I followed but was unable to turn around because of the backpack so I stepped out and backed in. We pushed a button next to the “7” and up we went. The elevator stopped with a slight jolt and we exited to a dark hallway that lit instantly as we stepped out of the elevator. There were three closed brown doors and the stairwell door open at the end of the small floor providing enough light to see number 25 on a door. The walls were painted with a dreary brown and faded white with some exposed plaster and wires around one of the doors. Later we discussed that moment and we both agreed we had serious doubts about our apartment choice but knew we would have to proceed hoping the apartment was in better condition. The door opened quickly after a few light raps and we were looking at a man in his mid-sixties standing about 5’6” tall with a big smile and indicating we should go in. His name is Radolph, father of the landlord, and local resident. He spoke some English taking us around the one bedroom, one bathroom apartment.

Our view at sunset

The living room, to the left, was amply sized with four windows allowing good light into the room overlooking the city and facing Old City. The furnishings were clean and modern. The kitchen, immediately in front of us as we entered, had a table with four chairs, stove, oven, refrigerator and a coffee maker with adequate counter space. There was one window and a glass door leading to an outdoor balcony. The bathroom, at the end of the short hall to the right, while lacking shelf space had everything we wanted. The bedroom was equally well lit with more than enough closet space and perfectly comfortable. Everything was clean and in good order appearing exactly as it was described online. After some brief instructions and questions and answer session Radolph gave me the keys directing me to follow him to show me the procedure for the front door and the trash and recycling. After returning to Barb, we agreed the building looked sketchy but the apartment is perfect. We’ve been living here for more than two months and could not be more satisfied with our accommodations.

The Black Eagle building

Since being here we have taken trams around the city many times, with Black Eagle building in Centru, Old City, being our favorite. The Black Eagle building was built in 1909 on the site of the Eagle Hotel and had been beautifully refurbished. It is located on one of the corners of the Town Square and several bars and small eating places are in the covered area. We have been to the “Steam Bar” in the Black Eagle several times. Most of the patrons are very young, in their twenties and usually only a few tables are occupied with patrons. Sometimes it fills up with people playing board or card games drinking carbonated drinks and coffee, but some do drink beer. The town square is surrounded by beautifully refurbished buildings with vibrant colors. The patio is a giant pedestrian area made of varying patterns of concrete pavers. The tram station, Unirii, is a two minute walk from the bar and we enjoy going to have drinks and playing cards for a few hours.

King Saint Laszlo

A quarter mile walk across a bridge over the Crisul Respede River, Crisul Rapid River, takes us to Centru, or the center of the city. The pedestrian walkway is the Strada Republicii. This is my favorite place to walk, there are coffee/bars, bakeries, restaurants and many other small businesses. This picturesque section of the city was rebuilt in the mid 1800’s and most of the buildings have been restored to excellent condition and most of the others appear to be in the process of being restored. We have been to four other cities in Romania, Cluj, Timisoara, Bucharest and Brasov, and Ordea’s Old City is probably the most beautiful. The town square is centered around a statue of King Saint Laszlo on a horse. The town square patio is a huge space with different styles of pavers patterned with shops on all sides. It is usually busy with people and the coffee/bars and restaurants stay open late hours.

Piata Decibal

The city has large markets, piatas, in most sections of the city. We could see Piata Decibal from the window of our apartment. Each one is similar, with tables of individual vendors selling fresh produce, spices, sauerkraut, pickled foods, flowers and spices. There are small enclosed shops for raw and cured meats, cheeses and sour cream, bread, sweet and savory pastries. There are also three-sided booths selling other household commodities. The food is fresh and most of the produce is local, seasonal, flavorful and is substantially less expensive than the States and Western Europe. Throughout the city are US style grocery stores and smaller, privately owned ones.

Outside of the Old City the views are dominated by apartment buildings housing families from the second floor up and the first floor usually dedicated to businesses. There are pastry shops, banks and café/bars on every street. The bakeries are either small establishments with indoor seating or, more prevalent, a display window of the pastries and small glass door with a person to make the transaction. All of the “cafés” are also bars serving beer, wine and liquor drinks. Even the “bars” serve coffee as a main beverage choice, as evidenced by the cups on the tables. In all but one of the bars we’ve been to there are teenagers socializing at some of the tables drinking sodas and playing board games. We do frequent the Stradavari, we refer to it as “Rachel’s” because a bartender is the doppelganger of a friend of ours, is the closest to a bar as we are used to. I don’t recall a single person there having a non-alcoholic drink but there is a coffee machine behind the bar. The establishments stay open till 11 or 12 during the week and later on the weekends but they typically don’t have many people and I haven’t seen anyone drinking to excess. Once at Piata Rogerius while eating a pastry outside watching the people there was a guy dancing for the people waiting at the bus stop looking quite drunk. There were broken beer bottles along my river route the day after New Year celebrations but tame in comparison to a weekend night in most bars in the States. The places I go for a cup of coffee run the gamut from swanky to almost sketchy but all are clean and I always feel comfortable.

Since we arrived in Oradea I have walked between one to three miles four or five times a week. While I usually walk during the day I have been out after dark and I never felt uncomfortable. I have walked in all four directions from our apartment and have been through neighborhoods and on main roads. All have sidewalks and I see and pass people on all of my journeys, couples, children by themselves, families, Dads walking hand-in-hand with their little children, Moms and Dads pushing babies in carriages. Some of the buildings are basic square concrete multi-family structures built during the communist era but most are, especially as I approach Old City, older ornate structures from the 1800’s through to modern buildings. I see buildings being renovated and some with fantastic potential that have not received much attention in a long time. I walk for exercise and to see more of the city but we have taken the trams around the city many times. Most of the trams are very old and all different styles, thinking they purchased them from other cities, they are reliable. The tram costs 5 Lei, $1.25, per trip and takes us to most areas of the city. The buses appear newer than the trams but we haven’t been on one, but the cost is the same. I read an internet of Oradea’s mass transit is small for a city of its size but efficient and adequate.

Making placinta. A Romanian pastry.

We have a few restaurants we enjoy going to, "Spoon”, on the river, great food, beautifully decorated, “Queens Pub” Romanian home style food serving alcoholic drinks. Turchis is a Middle Eastern fast food. We love their hummus and wraps, “Pizzeria Due Fratelli” has a very friendly and comfortable atmosphere serving pizza and Italian foods, “Cyranos”-Romanian food and Placintarias-any one serving delicious fried dough.

Besides the beautiful buildings the cost of living here is easily half of what it cost in the States. I enjoy the safe feeling I have had since the first day we arrived. Since I have walked through many streets and dozens of miles, more areas than any time in my life since I was 16, the age I bought my first car. I love the ease of walking anyplace and the convenience of the cafes for a beer or coffee, the bakeries, Placinterias and pizza vendors almost on every street. The cars and pedestrians respect each other so crossing streets is a matter of locating the zebra lines or, for the busier roads, the pedestrian cross walks. Of course, some drivers sometimes try to rush the pedestrians and, at first, I felled compelled for drivers to slow down, but drivers respect pedestrians. I see pedestrians and hear the occasional car horn at crossing outside of the designated zebra lines and in between pedestrian traffic lights but they are the exception. I also appreciate and admire their honesty, something I have experienced in my life but never at a time when I could easily have been taken advantage of.


Barb:
As John stated, our first impression of our apartment building was not real good. Built for workers during Romania’s communist era, they aren’t the nicest looking buildings. They don’t appear to have been upgraded at all. Our apartment though, was modern, clean and had fantastic views with a great balcony.

Over the 2 and a half months living in Oradea, I have come to appreciate the city and it’s people. The people are kind and honest. They seem very family oriented. Fathers seem to be very involved with their children. People like to hold hands in Romania. They are animal lovers, putting food out for the stray cats and the birds. Putting sweaters on their dogs during the cold winter days. The older women like to wear hats. The people are tough, sometimes only wearing sweaters or sweatshirts in 20 degree weather. We see the “gypsies” sometimes, pushing their children to beg for money, I did kinda like their colorful clothing. Haven’t run into any vampires but as Romanians are known for their excellent gymnastics, we did witness a small girl doing cartwheels in a restaurant.

The city can be beautiful as we witnessed during the Christmas market. The lit up their buildings in a similar fashion as Berlin does during their Festival of Lights.  The Christmas market was full of people and everyone seemed to be having a great time.
Oradea’s Old Town section is as beautiful as John says. They have restored the buildings and seem to be restoring from the city center on out. There is so much potential here in Oradea. I would like to come back in a few years and see how much they have accomplished.

If you would like to see more of my photos of Oradea, just click HERE.

Cheers!
John and Barb